THE BRIDGE CAFE
The Oldest Drinking Establishment In New York City
The Bridge Cafe is located in a 1794 building at 279 Water Street. In that year Newell Narme opened a "grocery and wine and porter bottler" in the then tow and a half story wooden building with a peaked roof. The above date is significant because from that time the building has been the site of a food and drinking enterprise -- the oldest continuous business establishment in the same building in New York City. The Bank of New York although established in 1784 is not in its original building. Chase Manhattan Bank can only trace its origin to 1799 and not at the same site.
In 1794 Water Street (in this neighborhood) and the buildings on its east side marked the East River's western edge and Lawrence's wharf occupied the space near where the restaurant's kitchen now stands. The address has not changed in all these years. In 1888 the exterior of the building was altered to its present form.
In 1801 Peter and Jannet Laing bought the store and ran a grocery. During much of the 19th century alcoholic beverages were staple items for sale in grocery stores -- and still are. The New York City Board of Excise issued tavern licenses to groceries throughout much of the 19th century. In addition, the building held a tavern license in 1829 when it was described as a grocery in Longworth's city directory.
Laing was mariner and ship captain before buying 279 Water Street. In 1812 his name appeared as a witness on an indictment against a "Disorderly House" [brothel] at 15 Dover Street across the street. That building was demolished when the Brooklyn Bridge was built.
The building was purchased in 1826 by Charles G. Ferris, an attorney, who (and lather his estate) lease the property to a variety of saloon and boarding house operators until 1905 when it was purchased by Maurice Hyland. One notable tenant was Henry Williams who operated a Porter House and brothel here from 1847 to 1860. The prostitutes are actually listed in the 1855 New York census.
Williams had competition in the building because Ferris rented out the back room (now the kitchen) to Mr.James McGinnis from 1850 to 1858 where he ran his "Empire House," a Porter House. The literature of mid 19th century describes this part of Water Street as having a continuous string of saloons and brothels and, in some buildings, on every floor.
Then in 1859 Thomas Norton appeared as a lessee and Porter House keeper and remained until 1881. Noton was an attention getter. The crusading reform lawyer Flank Moss in his 1897 book The American Metropolis had the following to say: "At 279 Wather Street was Tom Norton's, a Bagnio [brothel] filled with river pirates and Water Street Hags. Norton made a fortune with his Dance Hall." Norton had been a mate on a Black Ball Packet ship according to Frank Moss. The building was indicted by the District Attorney in April 1879 as a "Disorderly House" (the legal term for brothel in the 19th century).
From 1881 to 1890 a parade of saloon operators moved in and out. Then in 1891 Jeremiah J.Cronin along with John Murphy arrived to run a liquor establishment. (Their 1986 saloon licence hangs on a wall.) Cronin was a New York City Alderman -- today's Councilman -- from 1898 to 1902 (Cronin was swept out of the City Council in a reform movement in 1901). Cronin and Murphy disappear from the directories in 1910, but are replaced in that year by Peter J.Boyle. Mr.Boyle ran a saloon here until 1922 when the McCormack family leased and later bought the property. During Prohibition the place was run as a restaurant and sold "cider," but beer was available and was supplied by a Brooklyn bootlegger named Charlie Brennan.
The current owners bought the building in 1979 and renamed it the Bridge Cafe. They upgraded the restaurant and bar but have kept the charming 1920s interior. The menu is outstanding. The restaurant received a one star rating from The New York Times several years ago. Ed Koch, while he was Mayor, regularly had lunch here and declared that it is "his favorite restaurant."
The research that resulted in the above account was done by Richard McDermott, publisher of The New York Chronicle (718) 423-8738. The New York Times reported on this research on Sunday, November 19, 1995 and September 29, 1996.
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